Approximately
600 factories in Cambodia produce clothing and shoes for major brands
such as H&M, Adidas and C&A.
Cambodia's garment industry provides cheap labour that allows for low
prices and fast fashion trends around the world. But the people
producing the clothing are struggling to for a living.
Cambodia's
garment industry has been under fire for a number of years. In what
is the country's largest informal employment sector, workers are
subjected to forced overtime and poor working conditions in
factories. Several surveys show that the salaries of the
approximately 700,000 workers in the garment industry are often too
low to provide for a decent life.
Earlier
this year, the minimum
wage increased from
56,700 riel ($140) per month to 62,000 riel ($153). But the extra 9
percent makes little difference. Also starting this year, workers
have been required to pay a monthly contribution to a national health
care plan. Although the health insurance could save workers a lot of
money when they need medical care, many of them feel like they've had
to give up a substantial part of their salary increase.
"For
that insurance I need to pay 14,200 riel ($3.50) per month,"
Phon Chane, who works in a factory in Phnom Penh, told DW. "And
when I went to the market during the weekend, I needed to pay 1,000
riel ($0.25 cents) for vegetables that were costing me 500 riel
($0.12 cents) a week earlier. So for me the increase really doesn't
change anything," added Phon.
With every
salary increase, many workers are in turn faced with an increase in
living costs -
rent and electricity prices go up and food and transportation gets
more expensive. In the past four
years the minimum wage gradually increased from 32,400 riel
($80) in 2013 to 62,000 riel ($153) this year. But with every wage
hike, landlords also raise their rent and prices of food and
transportation go up. Additionally, the current minimum wage is still
far below the 115,000 riel ($285) living wage recommended for
Cambodia by the Asia Floor Wage Alliance, a coalition of unions and
labor activists.
Eang Sok Nath often works
12 hour days six times a week. But despite these long working hours
and a salary increase early this year, 26-year-old Eang still has
trouble making ends meet.
"In January I earned 93,300 riel ($230), but everything has
gotten more expensive," Eang told DW. "The prices of
vegetables, meat and fish have all gone up. And just before the
salary increase, my landlord raised the rent of my room 20,200 riel
($5.00) per month."William Conklin, Cambodia director of the Solidarity Center, a US-based worker's rights NGO, told DW that fashion brands are partly to blame for poor wages in factories producing their clothing.
"What we see now is that brands squeeze factories and therefore workers," he said. "If you a pay a low price per piece of clothing, that dribbles down to the workers. Workers are now being seen as disposable. That attitude really needs to change."
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