“We have no water”, laments a Bedouin refugee,
embracing his children on the outskirts of one of the biggest and most
brutal refugee camps on earth – Zataari, just a few kilometers from the
Syrian border. “In Zataari, we have to pay for everything now, and those
Syrians who are controlling the camp are charging us, all of us who are
needy and desperate, for everything… They take advantage of us. They
have no mercy… That is why we are living in this tent, outside the camp.
Only our children work, because both Syrian ‘refugees’ and Jordanians
pay them close to nothing…”
Several well-groomed ladies wearing hijab are smoking water pipe at
one of the smartest malls in the Middle East – “Taj”. It is at top of
Amman’s ‘snob index’. Yes, there is one, proudly published on line.
There are plenty of snobs in the capital. Country of some 8 million
is producing close to nothing, but many locals are living high life
here, thanks to their collaborating with the West and with Saudi Arabia.
To be on good terms with Israel is another lucrative business. And to
have US military bases on its territory, and to have US army and air
force ‘visiting’ Jordanian bases, is also one great way to get cash
(Jordanian military receives tremendous funding from abroad, but it is
strictly discouraged to investigate exactly ‘how much’?)…
Refugees, old and new, are great business. Not for the poor Jordanians, not for the majority, but for the elites.
It goes without saying that helping the West and Saudis to
destabilize Syria (like Turkey, Jordan has some training camps for
Syrian ‘opposition’, not just refugee camps, and part of Zataari is
actually functioning as a training camp) is enormously lucrative
business.
Even AP, at one point, could not shut-up, anymore, and snapped:
“Jordan is… officially denying that any training of anti-Assad
fighters takes place on its soil, though both Jordanian and American
officials have acknowledged it does.”
As we look at Jericho, from the top of one of the hills near the
border, I breathe deeply while feeling goose bumps on my back:
“Palestine!”
“Israel”, utters my driver, phlegmatically. Then, as he passes
Jordanian military control, he calls the soldier “habibi”, which
literally means ‘my beloved’.
Christian religious sites are huge business here, too, and to get to
the River Jordan and to the place where Mr. Jesus Christ was allegedly
baptized (if one believes in fairytales), it is necessary to endure
steep fees and outrageous arrogance of Jordanian intelligence agents
(the site is on the border between Jordan and ‘Israel’, as my driver
calls it).
Jordan is hardly a pride of Arab world. Palestinians are
discriminated here, relentlessly, to the point that even the UN is
occasionally protesting. There is also discrimination against Bedouins.
“We love Americans here”, explains Ahmed, an owner of a small café
right in front of the ancient Roman theatre in Amman. “Many of us worked
for them. I served as an interpreter on one of their bases in Iraq…” I
heard similar story in Uganda, recently…
To trash Iran and Syria is in vogue here. I guess it is expected from
you, if you want to get a decent job. But enormous military airports
between Amman and the Syrian or Iraqi border are something one should
not discuss… The West is not criticized here; to do it publicly is
taboo. ‘One does not bite the hand that feeds you’ mentality…
One also does not comment on who is now building al-Azraaq refugee
camp, designed for over 100.000 souls. Nor what purpose is it going to
serve, exactly. Who finances it, who is constructing it, and who is
profiting: hush, hush, and hush…
As I chat with Philippine and Kenyan waiters at a plush bar at
Marriott hotel on the shore of Dead Sea, everything becomes clear. “It
is mostly for foreigners,” I am being told. Resort is packed with
expatriates on weekend outing, and with Israeli tourists. Poor Dead Sea
is endlessly fucked, and soon will be truly dead, dry, as it is sinking
by one meter a year. But while even at ‘Israeli side’ there appears to
be almost no construction, Jordan is slamming one new enormous hotel
after another and now even constructing shiny US-style shopping malls.
‘Who cares about environment? Foreign military and expatriates need some
fresh air and booze.’ Gomorrah and Sodom are at the opposite shore, but
this is their latest variety.
If you drive towards Petra and then Aqaba, it is all desert and
misery, villages covered with dust and poverty on roughly Yemeni level.
You drive towards Syria and it is approximately the same: miserable
towns, military airports and refugee camps.
But back in Amman, it is 8 of what is called ‘5-star malls’, while
several new ones are being built. The country is totally grotesque, but
it is actually not something unique – just a condensed reality of the
Middle East, or at least of the client states of the West in this part
of the world.
Christopher Black, a leading international lawyer based in Toronto, Canada, explained for this report:
King Abdullah is acting as the cat’s paw of Anglo – American –
Israeli aggression in the region by his support of the vicious war
against Syria and its violation of the UN Charter and international law
by allowing his territory to be used to launch attacks by US proxy
forces and American “advisers” against Syria, by harboring armed
guerrilla and terrorist groups and by facilitating the movement of
Israeli forces on its common borders with Syria.
The wisdom here is simple: If you are member of the elites, serve
Europe and the US well, then get yourself a Range Rover, buy few Michael
Kors bags for your wife, Bally shoes for yourself, have a drink or two
in order to appear very secular and very progressive, cover your head
with Vuitton scarf if you are a female, and don’t forget to smoke a few
rounds of aromatic water pipe.
And tell everyone how much you love your (actually, our) King. Otherwise, shut up, habibi! Or you will get your country into real trouble; if you don’t collaborate, it may end up like Iraq or Libya, Syria or Iran.
By Special Correspondent Andre Vltchek from here
• WATCH THE SLIDE SHOW ON THIS REPORTAGE
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