Coffee,
like gold, sugar and oil, has long been one of Latin America’s major
exports, sustaining everyone from independent farmers in mountain
regions to corporate bankers in capital cities, all while keeping weary
minds alert throughout the world.
Yet
over the last decade, changing climate patterns have intensified
droughts and plagues in the region, creating conditions less suitable
for coffee production and wreaking havoc on the industry that came to
define, even shape, many hillsides in rural Central and South America.
Today, as coffee growers struggle to recover from a string of
weather-related events, some industry analysts have already foreseen a
major shift in coffee production towards Asia and away from Latin
America.
The long series of problems came to a peak this spring, when coffee prices doubled after a severe drought
stunted the growing season in Brazil, the world’s top coffee exporter.
The extent of the damage remains unknown, but the price hike arrived at
the same time that many other Latin American nations underwent a record-breaking epidemic of coffee rust, or “roya” in Spanish, a fungus known to suffocate coffee trees and lower bean yields.
The
rust outbreak began in 2012 and has since affected nations spanning
from Mexico to Peru, with countries in Central America experiencing the
highest levels of crop loss, said Monika Firl, social projects manager
at Cooperative Coffees, a Montreal-based sourcing co-op that imports specialty coffee.
“In
Nicaragua in particular, farmer groups have been really hit hard,” Firl
said. “Some groups that we are working with might have 20 percent of
their total harvest. There are other farmers we are working with in El
Salvador that will have 5 or 10 percent of their usual harvest, so for a
farmer that’s already living on the edge, this is disastrous.”
The
outbreak is just one of three major epidemics to hit Latin American
coffee growers in the last six years. There was also a coffee rust
outbreak in Colombia from 2008-2011, where nearly a third of the
nation’s harvest was lost to the fungus. Along with this year’s drought
in Brazil, the three events were caused by erratic climate patterns,
said Peter Baker a senior scientist specializing in commodities and
climate change at the Centre for Agricultural Bioscience International.
“It’s
difficult to point the finger directly and say it’s because of climate
change, but it’s consistent with more chaotic weather patterns which I
think we’re seeing globally,” Baker said during a phone interview in May
2014.
Aside
from higher prices and lower quality brews for consumers worldwide, the
wave of agricultural catastrophes threatens the economic foundation of
coffee growing nations in Latin America, where total coffee production
has dropped about 20 percent since 2011, an estimated loss of more than
$1 billion. In Central America alone, about 5 million people get their livelihood, directly or indirectly, from the coffee and their future remains uncertain.
The latest report from the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC)
states “the suitability for coffee crops in Costa Rica, Nicaragua and
El Salvador will be reduced by 40 percent” with increasing of
temperatures. Regarding Brazil, the report says warmer summers could
make coffee crop unfeasible in Minas Gerais and São Paulo, the nation’s
major coffee growing states.
In
1870, Sri Lanka was the largest coffee producer in the world. At the
time, it was a British colony known as Ceylon and the small island
supplied Europe with much of its coffee until the first signs of a rust outbreak appeared in 1875.
The fungus spread quickly and the colonizers failed to slow infection
rates, resulting in the loss of 95 percent of the coffee harvest in less
than 20 years.
It’s too early to tell whether the same fate awaits Central and South America, but the prospects are worrisome, Firl said.
“The
position rust puts farmers in is so challenging,” Firl said. “Most of
the support going out to farmers, I feel, is misguided. It’s pushing
them towards chemical solutions, it’s a lot of talk and a lot of
showcasing, grandstanding new policies, grandiose summits and very
little is going to farmers to help them get through what’s a very
horrific plague.”
Most
efforts to combat the outbreak have been centered on developing new
fungicides and fungus-resistant coffee trees, Firl said. Yet these
remedies have proven to be problematic in Honduras, where 50 percent of
coffee plants were rust-resistant varieties and the nation still
suffered a 28 percent loss of coffee yields during the most recent
outbreak.
Other
areas like Vietnam, Indonesia, Laos, Myanmar and China where much of
the rising coffee production is driving deforestation. While sustainable
and fair-trade coffee certifications have made significant impacts on
the industry over the last decade, Baker said they haven’t done enough
to curb destructive land use practices.
"That’s
a principle problem, that you have a lot of new coffee coming onto the
market every year and most of that, I think, is coming from
deforestation so this is something the coffee industry doesn’t really
want to talk about, but it’s happening,” Baker said, citing studies by
David Gaveau of the Center for International Forestry Research, that
link coffee price fluctuations to deforestation rates in Sumatra.
The
globalized production of coffee has kept crop prices relatively stable.
New exports from Asia replace crop losses in Latin America and, until
recently, consumers have remained unaffected.
“What
the last years have told us is we lose millions of sacks of coffees
because of rust and yet the price goes down,” Baker said. “So roya is a
sort of earthquake that reminds us that we’re sitting on top of a fault
and the fault is that the global market doesn’t work for agriculture in
general.”
taken from here
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